Japanese Culture

When renovating any area of the home, the finishing can be most common aspect of the job that is overlooked.

If the home owner himself / herself is installing a new door frame, they may be so frustrated with the high degree of precision to do it right that they may just paint the new door frame & jam and go on to some other project.

If the new door frame is installed by a contractor, well the contractor may not agree with the home owner's viewpoint on which party is going to take the time to properly finish the job. This is especially so if the contractor is not painting the new door frame.

What do we mean by finishing?

First, you need to make sure that the finishing nails which were used to attach the jam to the door frame are:

- actually sunk beneath the surface of the door jam, and
- covered with Wood Filler, the produce which looks and feels like caulking when it is first applied but unlike caulking dries to a hard finish.

Second, the Wood Filler applied to the holes in the jam caused by the finishing nails needs to be sanded to it properly blends into the surface of the door jam and will not be visible when the jam is painted.

Third, both upper corners where the two vertical jams meet the horizontal jam needs to be 'finished'. In this case one could use either the same Wood Filler or paintable caulking in sufficient quantity so it appears that there is actually one continuous door jam and not three.

Fourth, caulking needs to be applied to the following areas:

- either side of both vertical jams and the horizontal jam at the top of the door frame for the appearance that the jams are actually part of the door frame
- the upper corners of the door frame where the vertical frames on either side of the door opening meet the horizontal frame

Lastely, two coats of paint.

The above takes time.

How do you know when the job is finished? It's when no one notices.

How do you know when the job is not sufficiently finished? It's when it looks messy and not complete. It's also when your better half says "So, when are you going to finish the door frame?".

For photographs on door finishing as well as more home renovation and improvement tips, simply select the following resource link to Daily Home Renovation Tips.

http://dailyhomerenotips.com/

In previous articles i explained to you how to determine whether your windows are candidates for vinyl replacement style frames or retrofit style frames. This week I'm going to explain the installation techniques for both frame styles. Let's start with the retrofit frame.

Retrofit window installation is really the easiest of all. The retrofit window already comes with an exterior trim attached. That's the flush fin that goes against the outside surface, usually stucco. Prepare the window by drilling 3/8" holes in the areas of the frame where you want to screw it in place. Normally, there will be 3 holes on each side and 3 more across the top. Don't predrill any holes in the bottom track. After removing the old panels, you want to run a heavy bead of caulk on the face of the old aluminum frame that you left in place. Then you and a helper set the bottom of the vinyl window onto the old aluminum bottom track and raise it into position. The flush fin or retrofit lip will act as a "stop" to hold the window in place. Have your helper hold the window while you go inside.

Once inside, you want to center the window in the opening. Slide the vent panel open and closed to make sure the window is plumb and level. To adjust for out of square conditions, shim the bottom right or left corner by placing a shimming material between the sill and bottom of the window frame. Once square, drive a 3" deck screw through the 3/8" holes and into the wood studs.Just seat the screw, don't overtighten. After you get the screws into the sides and top, remove the sliding panel. The bottom track should lift out. Look for drainage holes in the track and insert a thin screwdriver and lift up. Drive one screw in the bottom center, caulk around the screw head, then put the track back in place and re-install the sliding panel. Now, you want to go back outside and caulk the gap where the retrofit fin meets the exterior surface of the house. You want to have a double barrier of protection against water infiltration. RemeF08mber, you already applied a generous bead of caulk before inserting the new frame into the opening. The rest of the job is done on the inside.

First, you want to plug the 3/8" screw holes to hide the heads of the screws. We sell the hole plugs on the website. Just click on the "shop" tab to see a picture. The plugs will pop into place in the hole. The next step is to fill the gap around the new frame with R-13 Insulation. Do not use the foam insulation that comes in a can. Many manufacturers will not honor the warranty if the foam is used. Even the non expanding foams can cause the frame to distort, causing problems. Pack the insulation in tight. You might want to wear a dust mask during this procedure. Many people, myself included, are very sensitive to insulation. After the insulation is in place, you want to install trim around the inside to finish the job. You can use wood trim from the hardware store, or some other product. But in my experience, the best product is a vinyl flat trim that matches the window frame. The flat trim can also be purchased on the website under the "shop" tab, or you could try to find it from a local window contractor. Ours comes in 3 different widths, although the 1 3/4" wide piece is by far the most common. The trim has a double sided adhesive tape on the back. You cut the top and bottom first, stick them on the vinyl frame, making sure the trim goes to the drywall. This covers all the insulation and the old metal frame. Do the side pieces next. The final step is to caulk where the trim meets the walls.

Much of the installation process for a replacement frame is the same as the retrofit frame. But, there are a few differences. When you put the new window into the opening using a replacement frame, you don't have the flush fin holding the frame in place. You and your helper have to hold the frame in place while you put a screw in the top center to support the frame. Then, you can do your adjusting for a square condition. All of the procedures on the inside will be exactly the same, from hole plugs, to insulation, to trim and caulk. The outside is different. You have to apply the trim that was part of the retrofit frame. Again, I prefer the flat trim. Once again, you apply a bead of caulk to the old frame,then measure and cut the top and bottom trim pieces. Apply the adhesive part of the trim to the vinyl frame, and let the other part contact the bead of caulk. Trim all four sides, then caulk again where the trim meets the exterior material.

As you can see, it really doesn't matter if the exterior of your home is brick, stone, siding, or stucco. You can install vinyl windows without having to damage the surrounding structure. We have step by step instructional videos for sale on the website at how-to-install-windows.com. Next week we are going to start discussing sliding glass door replacement.

John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978. To learn more, visit How To Install Windows

A Japanese bathtub, sometimes called an Ofuro, is usually around twice the size of a standard American style bathtub. It is deeper and often rounder, to allow the bather to sit comfortably with their knees bent. The water, which is kept at a high temperature, is up to the bather's chest. This position is said to aid relaxation and meditation, which makes for a very therapeutic bathing experience.

The Japanese bathtub is rapidly gaining popularity throughout the world. As people become more interested in personal wellbeing and healthy living through homeopathy and natural remedies, the Japanese style of bathing compliments these ideas perfectly. The hot water is said to stimulate blood circulation and have positive effects on the overall health of body and mind.

Another benefit of these unique bath tubs is that they are generally much more compact - deeper, but more upright - and therefore suitable for smaller spaces than the standard size tubs. They can also easily be adapted to become walk-in style tubs for the elderly or infirm.

The original style of Japanese bathtub was always made of wood. The natural wood was said to add to the therapeutic powers of the bath and was particularly favored in hot spring facilities and spas. Nowadays ceramics, porcelain, fiberglass and even stainless steel models are available to suit a range of pockets.

Bathtubs from Japan are traditionally for soaking rather then washing. In fact, actually washing in your tub would be seriously scorned by most Japanese people. Washing, scrubbing and hair washing will take place before entering the bath and soaking for up to one hour in hot water. The body should be clean and pure before bathing as any residual soap or grime will contaminate the waters.

In a Japanese public bathhouse - which are still very popular and well worth a visit if you ever have the opportunity - ritual and tradition can be rather tricky. Do a bit of research before you go and follow the lead of the locals. The overall experience is sure to be blissfully relaxing.

The basic things to remember are that no soap is to be used in the tubs. No outside or 'toilet shoes' (these are for use strictly in the toilet areas, and changed as soon as you depart the area) are to be worn in the bathhouse. Bare feet are not really acceptable as your feet should be clean to bathe. Nudity is expected, and since male and female segregation is the norm this is not an issue for most. Lastly, the water is very hot - enter the waters slowly and be careful.

Japanese bathtubs are noth the only accessory that can go into your bathroom. Visit us today to learn more about how to install a bath tub and why a corner bathroom vanity is something you should check out.

Shower floor pans are out of sight and not something you normally think about. But if you have a leaky shower, you may have damage to the entire area around your shower.

A handy person can replace or install a shower pan with the right instruction.

Here are the basic steps.

Repair any damage.

Usually damage will be to the sub floor in and around the shower pan. Remove rotted material and replace it.

Install drain base.

Tile floors are water-resistant but not water-proof. Mortar that's exposed to water absorbs water. Mix the mortar properly or it will crumble and fail over time. Install the drain at this stage.

Build the sloped mortar base.

Build your floor slope in here. The slope moves all the water to the drain which prevents mold, fungus and odors. Build a roughly two inch thick base that slopes to the drain.

Install the shower floor pan liner membrane and drain top.

A flexible waterproof membrane goes above the mortar base. The membrane goes up the sides of the wall a few inches. One of the tricks is how to fold the liner in the corner.

Install the second mortar bed.

A second mortar bed is installed over the liner and reinforced with wire.

Build the curb.

Build any threshold forms and pour mortar mix to establish the correct shape.1100

Install tile.

After the second coat of mortar cures, install a coat of thinset. Thinset is a special mortar used to stick the tile to the base. Then install tile. Let thinset cure and then grout.

Want more details on shower floor pans and shower repairs?

I was able to watch a professional tile setter build a shower pan and that really cleared up a lot of questions for me.

Seeing a professional tile setter build a shower pan, step-by-step, may be just what you need.

Visit http://www.InstallingCeramicTile.net to get what may be the solution to your problems.

Al Bullington is a fan of ceramic tile construction and especially enjoys the luxury of tile showers.

Shabby Chic, also known as Vintage, is the idea of incorporating accessories, furniture, and household items from the years 1900-1950 to decorate your home. But what makes this dcor a popular decorating style? It provides a comfortable and casual look through the use of Vintage accessories, new dcor that looks old, pastels, comfy light painted furniture, lace tablecloths, dreamy soft floral fabrics, wrought iron curtain rods with sheer curtains, and vivid fresh flowers. The idea of combining the old with the new opens up endless possibilities when selecting Shabby Chic home dcor and furnishings.

Imagine visiting your grandparents and snuggling in comfortable soft furniture, while being surrounded by colorful fresh flowers and the soft scent of candles. This style can create the same sensation for your own home. It balances elegant items with old and worn, silver accessories with painted wood tables, and soft area rugs with old lace.

If your budget is limited, Shabby Chic decorating is the perfect solution. You can scour some of the great websites noted below for Shabby Chic home dcor.

Shabby Chic and Vintage use furniture that is worn, along with stylish items and things that look old. Therefore, you have a varied range of choices for furniture and home dcor.

Consider the following ideas as a guide:

A fresh coat of paint is a great way of giving old furniture pieces some Shabby Chic appeal. You can also update older upholstered furniture through the use of slip covers or large throws. For small tables, such as side tables, coffee tables, or consoles, look for pieces that feature carved wood as a focal point. When looking for Shabby Chic furniture, take measures to avoid bright bold colors or matching sets. Instead, try to mix and match the upholstery style with floral patterns, along with striped pillows and other accessories.

To accent your walls, you can include carved wood or metal shelves, which can be purchased in antique stores, gift shops, garage sales, and antique fairs. Again, a little paint on these items goes a long way because you will add a special touch to your dcor. For instance, you can incorporate an ornate wrought iron corner shelf and display antique collectibles or crocheted dollies for a vintage look. Furthermore, you can look for old doors, windows, mantels, garden gates, house shutters, and wrought iron, which can be used as wall hangings or even used to replace existing doors to add charm.

For lighting, you can use a floral print or solid colored fabric lamp shade for the right splash of color and display it against surfaces that are distressed. Wrought iron, wood mirrors, or picture frames with white, natural, or distressed finishes blend well in a Shabby Chic room. If you want to add a unique touch to this dcor, apply weathered paint to towel racks in the bathroom or kitchen. And lets not forget to include candleholders or a candelabra. You can give these items a distressed finish in white or ivory for that shabby chic look.

Giorgina Devereaux is the creator of AskGiorgina.com, which features questions, answers, and ideas on home decor and furniture. For more information, please visit http://www.AskGiorgina.com

Natural stone has been used for flooring for hundreds of years. There are many choices, marble, and granite being the most popular. A new natural stone tile has entered the market limestone. It is elegant in appearance and has become a very popular choice for homeowners.

Available in a variety of shades of light brown, beige, and yellow very few natural stones provide the elegance and rich appearance of limestone. The most common surface finish for limestone is matte, making it an excellent choice where moisture may be present, as the matte finish provides for a non-slip surface.

Installing limestone tile is no different than installing any natural stone product such as granite or marble. A thin set mortar should be used and the joints between tiles should be filled with grout. As limestone is a permeable natural stone water can penetrate it. Therefore, it is important that the limestone tile and the grout be sealed with a very high quality, penetrating sealer to avoid having the tile permanently stained due to spills or other grime.

Limestone lends itself well to creating complex geometric patterns, as it is available in a variety of square and rectangular sizes in thicknesses of 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch thick. It is easy to cut, mu9E3ch easier than granite or marble, but still requires the use of a wet saw with a diamond-impregnated blade. When cut, limestone has a relatively smooth edge, which can be easily filed or honed to a smooth finish.

As with granite and marble it is important when purchasing your limestone tiles to pay attention to the lot numbers. Any specific lot number means that the individual limestone tiles were cut from the same block of limestone and should provide a color and grain match. Always remember that one of the things that makes any natural stone floor rich and unique is that no two pieces of natural stone are the same in color or grain. Because of the grain and color differences, it is important that you always buy extra tiles, as any specific lot number may not be available a few days after your original purchase. If you are installing a basic grid pattern, it is recommended that you purchase at least 10% more tile than the square footage calculation would indicate. For a diamond pattern the recommendation is 20% more than the square footage calculation.

Of course nothing is ever perfect. With all the positive attributes of limestone there is one negative. Limestone is a very porous material and even if heavily sealed with a penetrating sealer it should not be used in kitchens or full bathrooms bathrooms with showers or tubs. Building codes in many areas prohibit the use of limestone tile in restaurant kitchens.

Natural limestone tile is an excellent choice for hallways, foyers, and dining rooms. Its elegance will last for generations, enhance any home, and its neutral colors will compliment any choice of dcor.

For additional information on flooring products for your home or other renovation projects including landscaping and gardening, visit Renovation Headquarters.